Italy

Italy...Art, History, Natural Beauty, Food, Wine...it has it all, and would take a lifetime to enjoy it all.

Possibly the greatest thing about visiting Italy is the variety. I would argue that is more variation of culture and history here than almost anywhere in the world. Visiting places like Palermo, Rome, Genoa, Florence, Venice...they are such incredibly different experiences.

One of the difficult parts of visiting Italy is where to go. Especially if it your first visit. If you only have 2-3 days, I would likely just stay in Rome. However, any trip longer than that will be best served by adding more cities to your itinerary. My personal favorite for a second city in Florence. It is hard to ignore the home of The Renaissance. The third place to visit is harder. So many great choices. Going north to Milan, or Turin, Genoa, Bologna, Verona, Venice, Cinque Terre, Lake Como and The Dolomites. Or go south and choose Naples, Palermo, Amalfi Coast, Catania. Too many options to mention. Where to go largely will depend on what you want to see, and what season you visit and how much time you have available. I certainly have my favorites. Personally, I prefer the north of Italy to the south. it isn't as sunny and warm in the winter; and, you won't have as much of the beach life that you will find farther south, like the Amalfi Coast. But, I prefer a greater art scene, wider variety of wine country, green rolling hills, and even mountains. And, if you must have the beach life in the north, head to Cinque Terre!

It is my opinion that if you get to only travel to Europe a couple of times in your life, then a combined visit to Rome and Florence have to be one of those trips. But, I hope that you will get more than two chances to visit this continent!

Getting around Italy

Rome

Naples / Pompeii / Herculaneum

History

One of the great places in the world to enjoy history. After all, this is original heart of the Roman Empire!

Italian Countryside

There are few places that can match the beauty of the countryside that Italy offers. From the Italian Alps and Lake Como, to the rolling hills of Tuscany and Lombardi, to the beaches of the South...Italy has it all.

Getting around Italy

Trains, trains and more trains. Get to know TrenItalia and download the app before you go. When you use TrenItalia, you will notice that it doesn't translate city names like most sites. So, when searching, use the Italian spellings. Roma for Rome, Genova for Genoa, Firenze for Florence, etc.

If you are traveling from city to city, this is what you need. Especially if you are staying the city centers because you do not want to drive in the centers.

Trains will be your best bet unless you are staying in a small town of the countryside. I have rented cars a couple of times while in Italy and that was because I booked places in the countryside of Tuscany and Lombardi to enjoy the hikes, bike rides, and wine country. The other exception might be if you are headed to Sicily as it can be a long train ride of 12 or so hours. So, one could argue for the option of flying to Palermo. It is just a one hour flight from Rome, and can be even cheaper than the 12 hour train.

Once you arrive in Italian cities, you will walk. In nearly every city, you will find that the things you want to see are all in walking distance. There are exceptions, of course, but I would guess 95% of your wish list in Italian cities can be walked to.

If you initially arrive by flying into Rome, the airport is about 30 kilometers west of the city center. Getting into the city is easy though. You can take buses in, but I prefer the train to Roma Termini station. The Leonardo Express train runs every 15 minutes (there are over 60 trains per day) and cost as little as 10 euros. You can buy a ticket online, but I usually just buy them as I arrive. The trick is though, if you buy it on arrival, you need to find the validating machines on the platform. This is a 32 minute trip to the center, and comes with outlets and restrooms. But, no WIFI or food. After all, it is just a local train.

Driving in Italy

Deciding to get a car in Italy is all depending on where you want to be. For most visits, it will not be necessary. Metro systems within cities, and the intercity trains are very good in most of the country. Often, the intercity train is faster then driving, for example Rome to Florence or Milan.

But, if you want to see the countryside and decide to get a car, I have found driving in Italy to be different than any other European country. Yes, you have the narrow roads to deal with, and the high gas prices. But, the difference is that, even though there are thousands of speed cameras located throughout the country, people still drive very fast most of the time because the locals know where the cameras are. So, they drive fast, then slow down right before the camera. As a visitor, you won’t know here the cameras are, so you want to stay at the speed limit. But, that means locals aggressively tailgating you at almost all times which can be frustrating. or you can speed up enough to prevent them from tailgating, but that leaves you open for a speeding ticket, because you wont know where the cameras are.

The other thing that is important to watch for is ZTL areas, (Zona traffic limitato). These are zones restricted to authorized drivers and are typically around historic city centers. Entering one by accident is easy to do, as signs can be hard to see, and will be in Italian only. Just watch for the letters ZTL.

There is no grace for entering a ZTL. If you pass the sign by 10 feet and decide to turn around, it is too late. The camera got you, and a ticket is coming. There is also no buffer for speeding past a camera, like there is in France or the UK (the UK for example will only ticket you if you are 10% plus 2 km over the limit).

If you get a ticket in a rental car, the first charge will be about 50 Euro. That is just for the rental agency notifying the police who is responsible. Then, the police will mail you a ticket. They have up to a year to send you the ticket. I never received the ticket that my rental agency notified the police of in October 2021. I paid the rental agency the 50 euro fee, but I still haven’t received a ticket. All I know is that I, apparently, was caught driving between 1 and 10 kmh over the limit.

I can tell you in all honesty, I have driven in more than 50 countries around the world, and have only received written citations in one...Italy. And, it has happened twice!

I can also say that there has only been one time that I have received damage to a rental car (a rock flew up and damaged the windshield badly). Guess where that happened...yep, Italy.

And, I have only had one rental agency ever charge me for damage that I didn't cause. Guess where...yep. Italy.

I just haven't had much luck driving there.

But, it won't stop me from driving here again in the future. I simply love exploring the entire country too much!!

For this third picture, try to find the ZTL sign that tells you that a pass is needed to drive on the road. Hint, look for green letters above the left sidewalk. As a tourist, this would be very easy to miss, and end up with a citation.

Rome

I, Caladrius; 10,000 seasons I have wept and rejoiced

Over 7 hills, one city

Ascending over dusty cobblestones and The River Albula

Vespasian builds a Colossus, Peter builds a church

Millions of souls from the Lupine mother

Live and die in baths and markets and Fora

Worshipping Sky and Sea alike

Cheering in the Circus

Enchanted by poetic Virgil and Ovid

Shedding tears at a Gothic fall

And celebrating a Renaissance rise

Now, as I drink from The Fountain under a Pantheonic gaze

I wonder where the majesty has gone

But, lifting my eyes…I know

Rome still heals

Listing the best places to see in Rome is an endeavor that is beyond my capabilities.

However, I will give you my impressions from having visited the city many times. Certainly, start with going down the street, Via dei Fori Imperiali. Quite possibly the greatest concentration of archeological history in the world. Just along this street is the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Forum of Nerva, Trajan's Column, and probably a dozen more things to see.

Walking just 25 minutes from Fori Imperiali, you can get to the Pantheon (still the largest concrete dome in the world), while also passing by Piazza Venezia.

5-10 minute walk from the Pantheon is the famed Trevi Fountain in one direction, and 15 minutes to Castle San Angelo in another, which inevitably leads right to The Vatican.

If you love history, art, or archeology, Rome has it all in abundance.

My advice is to leave the cars and break out some comfy shoes!

This is possibly the best city in the world to walk for miles and miles. Simply because there is another treasure just around each corner.

I am a big fan of European public transportation, but I rarely use it here. With the obvious exception of using the train from the airport.

My suggestion on visiting Rome is to do it in the spring or fall if possible. The fact that Rome is an incredible place to visit is not a secret! And, in July and August, when the heat can also be oppressive, you will find that tourism gets overwhelming.

I love walking this city, but not when it is scorching hot, and there are crowds everywhere.

However...if the summer is the only time you can visit, then do it! It is better in the spring, but still wonderful in the summer.

My other suggestion, coming from recent years, is to prebook tickets for what you can. I have always been prone to discovering things organically and spontaneously. Kind of traveling by the seat of my pants, so to speak. I have made some of my finest memories that way. However, it is no longer a practical way to visit Rome, even during the shoulder season. The most popular attractions can sell out months ahead...even lodging and cars all get booked. If you do not plan properly, you may find yourself missing out, or paying way too much money. The downside is that it leaves less time for spontaneous whimsy. So, leave some open time in your plans to see things you do not even know about yet.

The places I think it is most likely that you will need to get times tickets to are the Colosseum, the Borghese Gallery, The Vatican Museum (and Sistine Chapel), The Pantheon.

Even though I don't generally like guided tours, they can be an advantage at The Colosseum to get the times you want.

The Borghese or Vatican Museum may just be impossible to get into during the summer if you don't book well ahead. And, I mean months ahead, not weeks!

The Pantheon can be seen without a prebooked ticket, but the line is enormous. So, book ahead, and skip the line. You will feel as important as Caesar as you walk by all those people waiting in heat!

This advice will also serve you well at all Italian cities north of Rome. Especially Florence.

My advice for Trevi Fountain is to go early. Really early! Be there before breakfast and the crowd will be 1/4 of what you will see mid day.

Even though Rome is most famous for its ancient buildings, it is more than that. Don't miss the art museums, they are world class. Borghese Gallery, Capitoline Museums, Vatican Museum, National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art.

Enjoy the parks and squares to cool down, rest your feet, and watch the bustling world go by. Villa Borghese, of course. Parco Celio. Circus Maximus is large enough to get some peace and quiet normally. In my whimsy, I stumbled upon my new favorite little plaza last year...Piazza Martin Lutero. Just a 10 minute walk from the Colosseum, but in the direction tourists don't go. So, you will see few people, and almost all locals.

Trevi Fountain

Pantheon

Colosseum

Roman Forum

Trajan's Market

Roman Forum with Colloseum

City Courthouse

Baths of Caracalla

Castle San Angelo

Alter of the Fatherland

Bologna

Italy's 7th largest city is painted with so much red, yellow, and orange; it feels like a permanent sunset.

It is home to UNESCO World Heritage sites, and has in the past been named the UNESCO city of Music and the European Capital of Culture.

Home to the oldest surviving university (the University of Bologna was established in 1088); the city has a large student population.

You can visit the many churches and plazas, as well as enjoy a bit of a ancient canal system, and hike up (or take a bus) to the Sanctuary of The Madonna di San Luca.

There is evidence of habitation here going back 5000 years, and significant settlements going back 3000; so there is plenty of history to enjoy.

Finestrella Canal

Neptune Fountain

Piazza Maggiore

Sanctuary of Madonna di Santa Luca

Cathedral Metropolitan di San Pietro

Neptune Fountain

Two Towers

Favorite Places in Bologna

Piazza Maggiore

City's main square lined with Medieval & Renaissance buildings. Don't miss the Fontana del Nettuno just outside the plaza, spurting mermaids surround a large 16th century fountain topped with the bronze figure of Neptune.

Piazza Santo Stefano

Smaller square with historic palaces and cultural events leading up to the Seven Churches complex.

Basilica di San Petronio

Huge Gothic basilica with an unfinished brick and marble facade, containing 22 art filled chapels. Construction stared in 1390 and continued for centuries, and the 16th century facade isn't yet complete.

The Two Towers

Landmark symbols of the city built by noble families in the 12th century, see them before they fall down!

Madonna di San Luca Sanctuary

Hilltop, baroque Roman Catholic church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

Located about 3 miles from the city center. A long walk, but there are buses that take you up there if you prefer.

Siena

A small historic center that is among the most beautiful in Italy. The kind of place that is really built for postcards. But, since the size is smaller, this is really a great day trip from Florence. A 90 minute train ride from Florence will get you to the outskirts of Siena.

Or, if you are visiting the Tuscany countryside, this is a must visit town.

I had never planned to visit here, but I had booked a week at an Airbnb in the countryside, and Siena was close. So, I checked it out. I am so glad I did!

The highlight is definitely the Duomo of Siena. Thought not as large as the church in Florence, it is by far more beautiful. Make sure you buy the combined ticket to see the church, the crypt and the museum with the viewpoint. The views from there are some of the nicest I have seen in Italy. Overlooking the city of Siena, with the Tuscan hills in the background. Give time to have lunch in the Piazza del Campo. And wear comfortable shoes for simply walking the side streets.

Add in a visit to the small art museum, Salvador Dali Siena. And maybe a stop by Fontebranda, a 13th century fountain, or the Museum of Torture. You will never regret adding Siena to your itinerary.

View over Siena

Basilica di San Clemente

City streets

Piazza del Campo

Duomo di Siena

Naples / Pompeii / Herculaneum

While in Naples, you do not want a car. Driving is hectic, streets are narrow, and parking is nearly impossible. Use public transport, even though I found it to be less reliable than places like Rome or Genoa or Milan; the prices were also cheaper. 1 metro ticket was 1.10 euros as of March 2022. Trains were often running 10-15 minutes late. But, it is still better than trying to drive here! Another difference in Naples is that you will often find metro tickets being sold by actual people in booths and not at machines.

Tip for Naples, have some cash on hand. The metro normally won’t take credit. Some restaurants won’t either, and I even went to a museum that didn’t accept credit.

In Naples, seeing the city is more based on organized tourist groups than other Italian cities. This must be due to the cruise ships that dock at the port. The bad news is that you will often be working your way around these groups. But, you don’t need to be in one yourself. As always, I am a big believer in exploring by yourself.

If it is nice day, a must see is Castle Sant Elmo. Situated 700 feet above the city, it provides a great view of the whole region. If the fog rolls in, choose another day to visit. The view is what you want. If you need to work off the gelato and pizza, walk up through the Spanish quarter. It is pretty and walks you right through the local markets, away from the tourists. If a 700 foot climb is not for you, take the funicular from the Augusteo station up to Funiculare Centrale. From there, it is a leisurely 10 minute walk to the castle.

If castles are your thing, there is still Castle Nuovo, and Castle Dell’ Ovo down at the water.

If visiting old churches is what you like, Naples has no end to them. Just walk the streets for a few minutes and you will pass many. My favorite is the Cathedral di Santa Maria Assunta. The recently opened Baptistry is a nice addition.

For museums, the Archeological Museum is the obvious one to see here. But, for art lovers, there is a very popular Contemporary Art Museum.

But, the main reason to come to Naples is Vesuvius.

The age old question for visitors…Pompeii or Herculaneum? The answer…both.

I think the dilemma is based on needing to spend an entire day at each. But, I do not believe that is necessary. Pompeii is by far the larger of the sites, and it has many incredible things to see. But, it can easily be visited in 3 or 4 hours. Let’s be honest, anymore time there and you are just looking at your 50th house, and they all start to look alike. As a tourist with limited time, you can do better.

My recommendation is to start at Pompeii, get started around 9 or 10 AM (the park opens at 9:00). The MET train from Napoli Central takes about 25 minutes (my preference). Or the L1 train from Napoli Porta Nolana takes about 30 minutes. And, there is a 10 minute walk to the park. So, leave Naples around 8:30 or 9:00.

After you spend 3 or 4 hours at Vesuvius, and make sure you see the highlights such as the amphitheater, the forum, the grand theatre, and spend time leisurely walking the streets; then exit at the Villa of Mysteries. After exiting, walk 8 to 10 minutes down the Via Villa de Misteri to the train station and catch the #1 train to Ercola (20 minutes). From the Ercola station, it is another 6 to 8 minute walk downhill to the ruins at Herculaneum.

You can get lunch at a restaurant just outside the Pompeii exit, or on the 6 to 8 minute walk from the train to Herculaneum. You will find more options near Herculaneum. I found street food right outside that train station that was perfect.

In Herculaneum, you will find a smaller village, but in many ways better preserved (there are places here where even the wood was preserved) because it was buried deeper. Spend a couple hours here, then you can head back to Naples. And you didn’t have to decide between the two. You got to see them both. You won't be disappointed.

Castel Nuovo Naples Italy

Duomo di Napoli

Pompeii Italy

Duomo di Napoli

Pompeii Italy

Herculaneum

Palermo

Getting to Palermo has so many options. Fly, drive, ferry, train. I opted for the train from Naples for simplicity and scenery. I definitely got the scenery down the west coast of Italy, and across the north coast of Sicily. Plus, the added fun of being on a train, that loads onto a ferry. That is how the train makes the crossing from the mainland to Sicily. It breaks apart in Villa San Giovanni. Then, gets loaded on a ferry while you are still on the train. Then, the ferry takes the 20 minute or so ride across the straight, while you are free to deboard the train and enjoy the fresh air on the ferry, or maybe get a snack on the boat. After landing in Messina, the train is unloaded from the ferry and reassembled; and you take off for Palermo. Half off the train heads to Palermo. The other half to Catania. Make sure you on the correct half.

The train was a cool option, but I would probably not do it again. 10 hours on a train is a long time, especially when there are no services, like a bar car or even WIFI. Yes, you got that right. 10 hours on an Italian train with no food or internet. So, prepare properly.

For any future visit, I would probably fly. You can find pretty cheap tickets if you plan ahead. And, it is only a one hour flight.

There are also ferries that go from Naples to Palermo and take 8.5 to 12 hours. So, it is no faster than a train, but will likely have better services. But, less scenery. Plus, a once weekly ferry from Civitavecchia (an hour north of Rome) to Palermo that takes about 13 hours.

Palermo Highlights

Quattro Canti

Baroque, octagonal public plaza featuring 4 fountains topped by ornate statues in niches.

Pretoria Fountain

16th century fountain known for its ornate, tiered design and nude statues of mythological figures.

Foro Italico

walk along the water and enjoy the scenery. It can be a bit industrial on the west side, but it is still lovely.

Cappuccini Catacomb

Head inland for a bit to see 8000 corpses dating from the 16th to the 20th centuries.

Palermo Cathedral

Probably the highlight of Palermo. 4 bell towers top this 12th century church with Royal tombs.

Florence

What can be said about Florence that hasn’t been said? Nothing.

If there are only a handful of places to visit during your lifetime, this is one of them. Yes, there will be crowds, especially during the summer. But there is a reason for it, and it is worth it. After all, this is the birthplace of the Renaissance. The hometown of Michelangelo, DaVinci, Botticelli, Donatello, Dante, etc, etc.

I think one of the top dream trips for any lover of art and history and food and wine would be to spend a few days in Rome, then take the train to Florence and spend a few days there also.

There are many must see places in Florence, but of course they are topped by The Accademia (with Michelangelo’s David), the Uffizi (the greatest collection of Renaissance art), and the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and the Baptistry of St John next door. If you are visiting Florence in the summer, this is one of the few times that I might suggest a tour group. Simply to be able to skip the line. However, many places do have the ability to book tickets ahead and have a reserved slot. The Accademia and Uffizi are such places. In the high season, definitely use this option.

Milan

What a pretty city! The Cathedral, Duomo di Milano, was amazing. One of the most beautiful I have ever visited. And you can walk the 229 steps up to stand on the roof and admire the views.

Next door was the glass roofed Vittorio Emanuele Gallery for shopping. They know how to shop in style!

Plus, the Sforzesco Castle is incredible with art by DaVinci and Michelangelo.

All within walking distance in and around the center.

Genoa

This is a city with an incredible maritime history going back centuries...millennia even, including being the home of Christopher Columbus.

Sandwiched between the water and the hills, Genoa holds quite a dramatic presence.

Just be ready to walk some stairs and hills when you visit!

Visit the original home of Christopher Columbus. But, keep in mind this is an 18th century reconstruction of his childhood home.

Doge's Palace - 13th century mansion with cultural attractions right on the Piazza De Ferrari

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo - 11th century cathedral with religious artifacts.

Aquarium of Genoa - really nice aquarium, after all this is a seaside city.

Another exploration can be to find some of the mansions of Genoa. This gives really good insight into the former vast wealth of the city. There are actually 42 homes on the UNESCO World Heritage list in this city. If you want to see many of them on one street, visit Via Giuseppe Garibaldi.

If you want to get up farther into the hills, go visit Puin Fort or Santa Tecia Fort. You may need a car for these though, as public transport doesn't really get up there.

For Puin Fort, you can take the FGC bus from Piazza Manin that will take you to Cappuccio, leaving a steep mile hike of the fort.

For Santa Tecia Fort, you can take the 44 or 17 bus, both of which will leave you with about a 15 minute walk of the fort.

Getting to and around Genoa

Personally, I was in Marseille France when I decided to visit, so I took the train over with one connection. The city is also reachable by train from Milan in 90 minutes or from Florence in 3 hours or Rome in 4 hours. Remember to use TrenItalia.

Once you are in Genoa, there is an extensive network run by AMT that includes 140 bus lines, as well as 1 underground line, 2 funiculars, 10 lifts, and a narrow gauge rail line, plus an airport shuttle service to the Sestri Ponente train station.

For ease, download the AMT Genova app.

Single tickets are 2 euro and daily tickets are 10 euro. If you don't use the app, tickets can be purchased at newsstands, tobacco shops and many other shops and bars.

Cinque Terre

Hike the 5 villages of Cinque Terre in Italy. This was something I wanted to do for years, and it was every bit as beautiful as I imagined!

For my hike, I took the train out from Genoa to Riomaggiore. The train will be full of others dong the same thing.

From Riomaggiore, pay the fee to hike and head up the coast ending in Monterosso al Mare. The hike is popular and incredible, Sea views along the way, crossing through vineyards and old villages. And, you will definitely get a work out.

Venice

Venice was quite interesting, but I don't think I loved it like most people. As lovely and fascinating as it is, I would not recommend this is a vacation stop, but more as a day trip. Seeing the canals and bridges is really cool, but after a while, they seemed a bit repetitive. The city can be reached by train from Florence or Milan in 2 hours and 15 minutes, and in 1.5 hours from Bologna.

For example, if you catch the 7:20 AM train from Florence, you will be in Venice at 9:30. Then, you can get 8-9 hours in Venice and catch the 17:30 or 18:30 PM train back to Florence and be back around 19:30 or 20:30, in time for dinner.

While you are here, don't miss;

St. Mark's Square and Basilica dating from the 12th century. This is iconic Venice and the center of tourism. Around the square, you will also find the picturesque colonnades, the Archeological Museum, the St Mark's Museum, the Correr Art Museum and the Doge's Palace. You will spend much of your time right here, around the square. It is just a lovely half hour walk from the train station.

Rialto Bridge - Ornate covered 16th-century stone footbridge crossing the Grand Canal. Just a 10 minute walk from St Mark's Square. Or if you came from the station, it is on the way.

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute - domed baroque styled church with octagonal design and a sacristy with 12 works by Titian. Just a water taxi ride across from The Square.

Doge Palace - Gothic palace buildings hosting exhibitions of the duke's rooms, prison and an armory tour.

Tintoretto Scuola Grande di San Rocco - if you need an art fix, head to this 16th century museum featuring works by the Renaissance artist Tintoretto.

Gallerie dell'Accademia - more art works focusing on Venetian artists over the centuries.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection - for lovers of contemporary art.

Rimini

Beach town an hour train ride from Bologna. But, with nearly 150,000 people, there is much more going on than just the beach.

Visit the Castle Sismondo and the Malatestiano Temple. Walk among the many plazas, do a little shopping, or see the ancient ruins like the Arco di Augosto.

For me, it was also a base from which I could explore San Marino. I don't think I would spend an entire holiday in Rimini unless you really want to hang out on the beach in the summer, and that is certainly okay! I am not much of a beach goer, and my visit was in March when most people are wearing light coats. But, it was great for a few day extension after a visit to Bologna.

Arco di Augusto

Dating to 27 BCE, this is the country's oldest surviving triumphal arch marks the gateway to the city center, leading down Corso d'Augusto for plenty of shopping opportunities.

Malatestiano Temple

13th century church rebuilt in 15th century as a mausoleum for Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta. (Sigismondo was a nobleman, Lord of Rimini, and the commander of the Venetian forces against the Ottoman Empire who dies in 1468)

Castle Sismondo

A 15th century castle and fortress, also built for Sigismondo. In the early 19th century, the castle was turned into police barracks, and the outer wall was torn down, and the moat was filled in. Today, the remaining central part is used for exhibitions.

Borgo San Giuliano

a neighborhood on Rimini that is composed of maze like winding streets, small colorful houses, and street murals.

Tiberius Bridge

2000 year old Roman crossing that connects the historic center of Rimini to the old fishing village. It is located between Borgo San Giuliano and April the 25th Park.

Piazza Cavour

Grab a bite, do some people watching or stop into the The Palaces of Art, or catch a show at the Amintore Galli Theatre.